From Santa Cruz to Hiouchi

(This blog is part travelogue, part advice on traveling with a dog, part discovery of what’s on the minds of Americans, Canadians and other nationalities, part commentary, and other musings.)

Not in chronological order:

Redwood kitsch: When I was a kid, I read a Disney book about Mickey and Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck and Pluto taking a road trip across America. I was particularly captivated by the descriptions of roadside attractions in the redwoods of Northern California – and I vowed to travel that same road some day.

And I have done, several times. Through Mendocino and Humboldt counties. But on this trip, I was determined to stop at one, at least, of those kitschy roadside attractions that take you into a 1950s time warp.

(Wood sculpture outside Grandfather Tree gift shop with said tree in the background.)

So Luca and I took a break at the WORLD FAMOUS GRANDFATHER TREE gift shop on the east side of Highway 101. The shop was closed, but the grounds held plenty of wood carved bears, (inexplicably) a sailor in yellow slicker, and other creatures. The grandfather tree is impressive – according to a sign below it, the redwood is 1,800 years old, stands 265 feet and has a diameter of 24 feet. And though I can’t attest to its age, the tree’s height and diameter seem accurate.

(World Famous Grandfather Tree!)

All along Highway 101 you’ll see similar tourist attractions like Confusion Hill, World Famous Tree House, One Log House and Legend of Bigfoot. For more information, check out this website – and if you’re in the area, make a stop or two. It’s worth it!

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Santa Rosa: A highlight was stopping to see my son Nick at his house in Santa Rosa, where I spent the night in his air-conditioned house (thank God – the temperature was 107 when I arrived and didn’t cool down much during the night). Nick is a fine young man who tends bar at the upscale Healdsburg Bar & Grill and is a very talented drummer. We had a great father-son, heart-to-heart conversation that will linger with me for a long time.

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Mendocino: I previously blogged about my friends Dan and Jason who moved from L.A. to Mendocino a little over a year ago. But I want to talk briefly about our stay in the area. We camped at the gorgeous Van Damme State Park, which stretches from the coast into the redwoods. We got a great campsite, and Luca got to play with Lola, a feisty brown Labrador one campsite over.

(Big River on the Mendocino Coast.)

We enjoyed tooling around the charming and historic town of Mendocino and seeing the dramatic Mendocino Headlands, but probably the highlight was our hike along the fog-shrouded Big River, the longest undeveloped estuary in the state. I strongly recommend camping at Van Damme and hiking along Big River. (There are also many other activities in that area, from scuba diving to kayaking to golfing.)

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Arcata: This funky, hippie-dippy town north of Eureka, and home to Humboldt State University, has a charming town square with restaurants and shops that have “eco-groovy deals” or have names like People’s Records. The county is known for its pot farms where you (and the cops) don’t dare venture because of the risk of being killed – though I can’t help but wonder if those marijuana farms are surviving given the legalization of weed in California.

(An Arcata couple)

Luca and I end up at a really good Mexican restaurant because it’s one of the few eateries that allow dogs on the patio. We meet Alice, a social worker originally from San Bernardino who got her M.S.W. at Humboldt State 12 years ago and stayed – despite some misgivings at first that were so strong she would drive to the beach and sob. Over time, however, she found that when she traveled, she was happy to come back to Arcata. She has a partner, but tells me it’s difficult for educated and professional women in the area to find suitable men. She’s beginning to think that it’s maybe time to move on – perhaps to Austin, Texas or somewhere back east.

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Two motels: We stay at Red Roof Inn in Arcata after a quick online check of pet-friendly motels. It’s the worst motel I’ve ever stayed in. The hall carpets are dirty, the plastic keys don’t work half the time and the TV didn’t work. I paid nearly $120 for the night. The next day I drive in the rain to the Smith River area (which has rave reviews), southeast of Crescent City. (Just when I thought Highway 101 couldn’t get prettier, I was proven wrong as we meandered through redwood trees, sometimes close enough to reach out and touch them, rugged beaches and glassy lagoons). I find Hiouchi Motel, which is 100 times better than Red Roof, with fridge, microwave, marble-tiled bathroom and comfortable bed – for just $77 a night plus a $15 fee for pets. Taxes included. I recommend Hiouchi Motel if you’re looking for a good bargain – and it’s just down the road from gorgeous Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.

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Love at first baaaaa: On our way to Hiouchi (a Yurok Indian word that means “light water”) we stop in Klamath briefly. I pull over when I see a curious emu in a fenced field staring at us. Luca is fascinated and nonplussed. But when he spots two sheep by the fence, he’s even more befuddled. The white sheep falls in love with Luca immediately, trying to nuzzle him through the fence’s wire mesh. Luca moves along the fence and Bo Peep follows his every step. There’s more sniffing, and Luca gets more flummoxed than before. When we get back to the car, Luca tries to jump out to get back to his new wooly flame. It’s kind of adorable.